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Thread: Repairing/rewiring Rega R200 tonearm

  1. #1
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    I just picked up an old Rega P2 and found some wiring issues between the fine cartridge leads and and the coaxial RCA leads - so it's coming apart.

    A few mysteries already ... A black wire comes out of the brass core - seems to be soldered inside ... that one connects to the ground tab on the output leads - no problem there.

    There is also a black wire inside the tonearm tube. One end seems to be attached inside the tube near the gimbal - the other end is loose. Would this also run down to the ground tab on the output leads?

    There was a small copper shim that came out with the headshell mount - it has no signs of solder on it, so I don't think it had any wires attached in the past.

    I have not pulled the spindle apart yet, but I think it needs it. The bearings feel slightly notchy and the anti-skate belt is broken. I have heard talk of replacing the magnet arrangement with a weight. Anyone have details on that mod? I might be interested. Do the bearings in the spindle get any lube? If so, what kind?

    The jam nut arrangement in there looks like a PITA to get tight without the right tool. Any tips on dealing with that bad boy?

    Thanks.

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    How 'bout this wire ?
    Any reason I shouldn't order this for the job? The existing wire looks like 36 AWG. I figure a little biggher won't hurt - it should still flex through the gimbal no problem.

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    j7's yer man regarding rewiring arms. Send him a PM or see www.audioorigami.co.uk
    Do to others as you would have them do to you. (Luke 6:31)

    From that time on Jesus began to preach, “Repent, for the kingdom of heaven has come near.” (Matthew 4:17)

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    The arm is probably a "Acos lustre" rebadged for Rega, not a bad arm if in good shape, but i soon found out when i bought a deck with one on, that a RB250/300 does a much better job, so if its a bit too far gone i would suggest you get an RB series off ebay and let j7 do the bizz in it.
    Sounds like it needs a rewire job anyway and if you do want to keep it, as said j7 will do the job very nicely.
    Like the SME`s that some say this Acos is as well put together as, i find them a bit too over engineered, and fiddly to set up.
    Thru.

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    forget that wire m8...its

    if the wire can stand up in the picture its TOO stiff

    even the origonal wire was like hair...very fine and droops if you hold it out...just like hair

    what you want for best results is cardas 33ga ofc copper litz


    solder all your black wires and any base earths to a seperate earth wire ...to conect to pre amp earth

    leave the bearings alone...just adjust the screws if you must get rid of the slap---they need be not oiled unless your an expert

    the AS band has broken...even i have gave up on repairs for this.... glue the magnets inplace 1/2 way on the shaft



    the jam nut needs the correct tools ...as does workin on the rest of the arm...over all its not a good diy job...but i suspect youll get there

    j7
    Last edited by j7; 11th September 2013 at 23:49.
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    may be helpfull
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    and
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    Thanks, j7. I got the pivot at the arm apart no problem, and I'm comfortable with reassembly of that as well.

    So if I wanted to switch this to the weighted-type of anti-skate mechanism, where can I find details of the correct geometry and weight to be using for this?

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    about 2-3 grams is about correct...i would basically copy a sme 3009 rig...should be easy done if you dont mind a little fiddling

    im assuming you can make the wee bits yourself---let me know if you need a anti skat weight made

    best wishes for now



    j7


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    never mind ... problems solved, questions answered.

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    another problem sovled



    NEXT
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    A final update:
    I DID use the wire on the eBay auction above. It isn't as flexible as the stuff I removed, but it still flexes quite easily. The image in the auction makes the stuff look stiff - it isn't.

    Thanks to an off-forum tip from J7, I made the tools I needed from some cheap 1/4" drive sockets (as in socket wrench) and was able to pull the bearings apart.

    Before pulling things apart, the bearings were tight enough that the anti-skate magnets could not overcome the bearing drag.

    After studying the anti-skate mechanism a bit, I drilled a couple of small holes in the plastic bits and fashioned a new "belt" from some heavy-duty thread.

    I rewired everything and put things back together - the spindle bearings now spin freely with no play - the anti-skate adjustment works. We're back in business.

    Thanks for the valuable tips.

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    Get J7 to have a look at the bias control, these are the weak part.The teeth inside under the control break away if i remember.

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    the AS belt was in many pieces. I replaced the rubber belt with the thread so all is well.

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    and here is the belt that snaps
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    ok
    update

    on all the units i have seen the snapped belt 99% of times snaps when the anti skat is set at approx 1.5grams...the last setting it was used usually

    there is no need to worry about removing the old eleastic band from the AS assembly...and it does not interfere with the AS magnets

    so in short...dont worry about the AS unless you have jumping or sticking problems

    for customers wishing to strip there own arm to remove or sort the AS...i would say to you...DONT ...the bearings can take me 1-12 hours to sort like factory...as the bearing cages are so fragile

    hope that helps


    best wishes j7
    Last edited by j7; 11th September 2013 at 23:51.
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    I fix the same problem on my r200 by making a belt out of a scrap print head drive belt off a scrap printer. I don't recall the make. Works a treat. The width and tooth pitch are exact.
    Rod

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    hi farthings123



    and welcome to the forum



    thats a great idea...and esp if its the same pitch

    just a pity you cant remember what model of printer was used



    best wishes as ever

    j7


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    Sorry about the poor grammar. Typing too quickly leads to 'orrible Inglish. I'll try to find the printer and let the list know what it is.

    By the way, I removed about 3/8 inch of the teeth and a similar length off the back side of the opposite end and epoxy glued the ends together. Almost seamless.
    Rod

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    hi rod

    yea any extra info would be very usefull

    there loads of rb200 out there with this fault
    best wishes as ever
    j7
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