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Thread: Repairing/rewiring Rega R200 tonearm

  1. #21
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    Hi J7,
    I'll have to go back to the recyclers to find out which printer the belt was off.

    A new problem has emerged. I can't get the cardtridge shell plug assembly out of the arm tube. I've removed the philips head screw but the pin contact assembly won't budge. Anyone, any ideas
    Rod

  2. #22
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    mmm yes i know the problem

    get a old headshell and fit it in the conector and gently add some twisting action as you pull

    dont be suprised if it comes out at 100 MPH heheh
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

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  3. #23
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    Hi all

    I'm new here.

    I'm in the process of trying to source a replacement toothed belt for the R200. Can anyone confirm the following info about the belt?

    Length: 138mm

    No of teeth: 134

    Pitch: 1mm (nom)

    Width: 3.5mm

    Height: 1.4mm



    Cheers
    ___________
    DON\'T PANIC

  4. #24
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    hi m8

    and welcome to the forum!!!

    not much is known about the origonal belt...but the sizes you mention seem about correct

    ill try and mesure a snapped unit at weekend and let u know

    best wishes for now
    j7
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

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  5. #25

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    Hi All,

    I have the same broken AS belt problem on my Rega R200.

    The suspended weight approach appeals as the most direct solution, given that there isn't any pressing need to fix anything that requires disassembly of the rest of the arm.

    So my question is: Does anyone have suggestions as to the best attachment points / methods for the monofilament "cable" and the wire frame? On quick inspection, the perfect approach doesn't jump out at me. There's no sense reinventing of somebody's already worked out a solution.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.

    -Carl

  6. #26
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    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  7. #27

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    Hi all,

    Just found this forum, yet know the main man via other forums and recommendations...

    Very late addition plus some advice please.

    I've been fortunate to have been given an R200. I have a brand new shell from when I used to sell these, the bias is fine at the moment and as the arm came from a Planar 3 the bearings are smooth running too.

    The internal wires are complete it seems, but the external wire is missing. My fine DIY skills aren't too good (same with my eyesight these days) and I was wondering if there's a cheapish fix available.

    Does the entire wiring loom have to be replaced, or can an external one be soldered on to the existing internal wires like before? Rega can't help now and are at great pains to point out the age of the newest samples of this arm...

    Regarding toothed belt sources, Panasonic used a toothed belt for some of their videos. I don't know of the pitch of the serrations, but if suitable they may make good donors.....

  8. #28
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    hi m8
    and welcome to the forum

    the r200 internal wire is very short to begine with...they did not leave much spare inside the arm...this makes soldering a new external lead possible but tricky

    new external leads from the rb250/251 arms are not the same as the r200 so there is no cheap new external lead available from rega....i can make a high quaility external lead with gold phonos etc and fit it for £60...this will be a durable and strong fit into the arm and should last another 10-20 years...

    just about every r200 origonal external lead devolopes problems as the plastic insulation inside the cable goes very brittle after all these years

    i had heard that panasonic used the same size AS belt in one of there vcrs...but i suspect stocks of that belt will be hard to find now...and more to the point most likely will be to large or small to fit exactly in the regas very slim AS assembly

    plus to get into the AS assembly requires the lower bearing assembly to be dismantled...can i just point out to anyone with these arms, that stripping the bearings yourself normally results in you sending me the arm in a jiffy bag in many parts ...and its not recomended
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

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  9. #29

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    Sincere thanks for that. I'll get it to you next month when finances allow... I may have to bite the bullet and get you to re-wire the whole thing (definitely the best option I know) and maybe tap you up for a brass or similar spacer (I suspect the original plastic one may be better for the Technics SL150 I have in mind, but a brass one may be best for a TD125 I also have).

    Many, MANY video spares and video service kits are available from SEME. They used to do an amazing catalogue which may be on CDR now, but all sorts of service items were available if you hold a trade account. All those hard to find clutch kits, BELTS, toothed or otherwise etc... You may have to super-glue the belts to size, but if the magnets are free to move, then the loading shouldn't cause too much stress hopefully.

    Many thanks again.
    Turntable bodger, NVA builder and NVA's loan scheme administrator

  10. #30
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    is that a garrot micro scanner gold decca?
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  11. #31
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    rewire prices for the rb200 :

    cardas internal 33ga ofc copper litz @£89

    super ofc external cable and plastic base plug and gold phonos @£65



    Or i can fit a 5 pinn dinn to the bottom of the arm @£30...this would mean you need a detachable 5 pinn external cable as well
    Last edited by j7; 29th June 2011 at 14:03.
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  12. #32

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    Thanks for the prices J7. Is the arm really worth spending that much on in total and is the internal wiring really cr@p (all complete and none snapped off underneath - just carefully unsoldered)?

    Yes, it is a Gold Microscanner and one of the best behaved Decca's (when it was working) I'd ever heard - little "snap" and great tracking. I sent it off a couple of years ago to a "man with a plan" who has all the tooling etc to repair and rebuild them apparently and it came back with new lateral coil and re-stuck magnet, beautifully done and I'm just waiting to win the lottery so I can buy a NAS Dias (I used to have a Mentor) with suitable arm (probably a uni-pivot for a Decca I think).
    Turntable bodger, NVA builder and NVA's loan scheme administrator

  13. #33
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    hi m8

    the rega r200 is worth spending that sort of money on if its faulty wireing or if you need the detachable headshell etc

    there is very few detachable headshell model arms about...and none for the cheap prices you find rb200 arm for i think
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

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  14. #34

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    Is the £89 for the whole works, or do I have to add the two prices together? Money's tight, so please forgive me if I appear to be a skinflint
    Turntable bodger, NVA builder and NVA's loan scheme administrator

  15. #35
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    lo m8

    the internal rewire and the external rewire (or 5 pinn detachable base plug) are seperate prices
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  16. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    ok
    update

    on all the units i have seen the snapped belt 99% of times snaps when the anti skat is set at approx 1.5grams...the last setting it was used usually

    there is no need to worry about removing the old eleastic band from the AS assembly...and it does not interfere with the AS magnets

    so in short...dont worry about the AS unless you have jumping or sticking problems

    for customers wishing to strip there own arm to remove or sort the AS...i would say to you...DONT ...the bearings can take me 2-3 hours to sort like factory...as the bearing cages are so fragile

    hope that helps


    best wishes j7
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    HEHE

    its as in the picture u sent me

    chill dood

    you will never get the arm back to its factory condition

    takes me hours of fiddling to get it perfect and ive done loads of em m8


    bw

    j7

    ================================================== =====
    At last, I can get in here - thanks Administrator!

    I got the stuff sprung out when the locking brass nuts was taken out. So I had no idea of their order and their facing. This is a piece of info I dearly want.

    I think I'm half dumb n half smart. With the info here, not much, though, and the advices from j7, I tried all combinations of their order and facing (the ball bearing and the seat each has two different sides). Result: in all attempts, the arm wand is sticky and does not swing freely on floating condition as other arms do. Last mid-night, when starring at it, I suddenly woke up that it wouldn't swing freely - the moving arm does not seat on the ball bearing but suspending it and the locking nut from above. When I held up the fork (horizontal bearing), the lower part swung when it was level!!! What a dumb m euh! I maybe too abrupt to call this design stupid.

    re: donut magnets used for AS. people avoid magnetic flux by using stainless steel on turntable and tonearm, and here we find magnet being used right around the lead wires!

    re: taping the magnet - i found it not possible as the two only have about 2mm gap for 1-1.5 grams and that "tape" must not touching the upper moving magnet. i think only glue can do, not the mention that there's grease on the shaft.

    re: printer belt to replace the AS setting belt - great idea. pitty no clue which brand having the right pitch!,,,?

    re: broken stock belts -- anyone knows what caused them to break into fragments? the grease???

    re: number of arms produced and sold. how many? the belt - and how long (dia.) and how many teeth? any one knows? I may be able to produce some.

    p-m

  17. #37
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    Welcome to the forum.

    Don't know anything about these arms but i'm sure someone will be along to help soon.
    Do to others as you would have them do to you. (Luke 6:31)

    From that time on Jesus began to preach, “Repent, for the kingdom of heaven has come near.” (Matthew 4:17)

  18. #38
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    hi m8


    and welcome

    as for the rb200 arm...this thread is a collection of information...and if we can find any answers will help many people in the future
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

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  19. #39

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    A few lines to caution new hands:

    The ball bearing and the seat are right under the brass locking nut. That's why w/o prior knowledge, the stuff sprung out of mine. So have to take out the nut with steady hand, note what is underneath and which of the two sides is facing you, then the next, again it has two different sides.

    Would appreciate to share info with details.

    I invite inputs on questions I raised in my last (my very first) post.

    re: the tool (a special U shape key) to open/close the brass nut. can be made from a screw driver as someone suggested here. I did it with old fashion way, not really ideal.

    p-m

  20. #40
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    yes u are correct u can make or use a special tool to take the bearings apart

    ...but once you do this ..the very fragile bearing cages open up and there tolerance all changes in the cage...disasembly causes this if you are not prepard to jig the arm up solid

    at the factory they would use a brand new set of bearings and cages

    please do not take your bearings apart...the anti skat broken elastic band is not a problem in most cases
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

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