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Thread: O d'A turntable

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    Default O d'A turntable

    Here's a first glimpse of a new turntable I'm putting together. There's a bit to do yet but I'm hoping to have it playing by the weekend. Solid plinth so no springs and the ply plinth damps the narrow aluminium subchassis that keeps the turntable bearing and arm in close mechanical contact. The motor pod will sit on the shelf through the large hole in the plinth and the plinth itself will have three compliant feet. I just hope the results justify the effort. Apologies for the poor pics. I'll post some decent ones when I get the deck home.



    Si.

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    interesting looking deck there Si, the platter looks like it's from a PT Too but i'm probably wrong, would like to hear the sound out of this one when you're finished

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    Cheers Gordon. The platter and bearing are from Clearaudio. I bought the first one from Proff and liked it that much that I bought another.

    There's a lot to do yet but when I'm satisfied with the results I'll set to and turn out my own bearing and platter.
    Si.

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    I've worked hard to get this turntable up and running today and also I've rewired my 12 inch arm too. I've had to turn up two new brass counterweights though I need to take a small amount of weight off the larger one.

    I'm more than pleased with the results and I feel like I'm on the right track at last. This is a very simple deck. A solid birch ply plinth with a softwood edge to break things up and it helps give the plinth a shallower look. This will be replaced with hardwood on the next build. The aluminium subchassis merely sits in the cutout on a damping medium which is very effective. When I build the next one the hole in the subchassis for the arm pillar will extend forward to the platter and a plate will sit on top to allow any arm from 205mm mounting distance to 312mm to be accomodated.







    I'm sticking with a dc motor, electronic speed control and thread drive as I've tried and tested this method and I'm more than happy with it. My dc motored thread drive LP12 has startled one or two this last week

    I'm also hoping to build two more plinths at a later date, one out of acrylic and one out of aluminium. This will give me the opportunity to assess different combinations of subchassis and plinth material and should in theory provide the ability to tune the deck to a person's system. I should also have the two part aluminium/acrylic platter installed by the end of the week with any luck.
    Si.

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    looking great Si, good luck with it.

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    It looks amazing Si, nice work. Is it unusual to have the pulley at the front left corner rather than at the rear?

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    Si's top plate for anLP12 is the same, it allows the pull from the pully to travel along the line of the arm instead of across it. At least I think that thats the theory!
    Coincidences - Gods way of reminding you that he's here.

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    Thanks Paul. This has been much harder than I thought to achieve but I've settled on what I suppose is the default setting ie the good old box. Not a fruitbox I hasten to add as this is a solid layered plinth. Lessons learnt from messing with Lencos and the Garrard I suppose but it works well and that's all that matters to me. I think the majority of older hifi users are happy with a straight forward design rather than big lumps of acrylic and stuff and let's face it, I think the majority of hifi users are older people.
    Si.

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    I've always favoured having the motor in that corner. On the LP12 the motor pulls at right angles to the arm and I can usually sense some wow at the end of side on long sustained notes. If you put the motor along the arm's axis it considerably lowers that tendency. I don't suppose it matters on this deck as everything is solid but it's my trademark now so I'll leave it there.

    Aye Dougie, my LP12 top plate puts the motor at 7.30 for the reasons I've just mentioned and I think it lifts the performance of the deck all round. I'm in two minds whether to do one for the mains motor too.
    Si.

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    Who's been a busy boy then Si. Looks bloody good mate and that edgeing certainly makes the plinth look a lot thiner than i guess it actualy is.

    Have you given much thought as to what grade of ally you might use for the plinth if or when you get around to it ?. Are you thinking of fabbing the plinth or machining out of a solid wodge ?. I've no idea on what knowledge you have in the ally dept but if you need a few pointers pm me. Cos theres ally and theres ally if you get my drift. Also i could source it for you through the trade and wing it up to you no probs.
    Elitist scum vinyl owner

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    Thanks Keith, that's bloody good of you mate The plinth would be made out of four plates 18-20mm thick. The top three would be the same size as the deck with the edging is now and the lower one would be smaller to give the step and slim the look of the plinth slightly. I might even get away with three plates thinking about it. There'd certainly be enough mass with three I'd think. The plates would simply be bolted together, the top plate blind drilled and threaded to accept long bolts from underneath. I'd do the same with the acrylic plinth and slate has come to mind too but that can be seriously expensive.

    I'll be in touch Keith when I've mapped things out and raised the necessary folding stuff
    Si.

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    Good to see a solid no nonsense deck without all that bouncy suspension to fiddle with. Have you thought of a name for it Si?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TIU View Post
    Good to see a solid no nonsense deck without all that bouncy suspension to fiddle with. Have you thought of a name for it Si?
    you can have a good heavy no nonsense bouncer too, no fiddling with mine

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Professor View Post
    you can have a good heavy no nonsense bouncer too, no fiddling with mine
    That's very true but there's a lot more engineering involved to do it right and that puts the price up as well as the build time. However this exercise is about cost effective performance if there is such a thing.
    Si.

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    Give me some overall plinth dimensions Si and i can get onto it so as to give you some idea as to what you are up aginst in the spondoolics dept. I loves the ducking and diving in the buying material dept i does. I call a supplier and say " WHAT ! , HOW MUCH !, you gotta be kidding me, so and so quoted £xxx !!", when i havnt even phoned so and so,lol.
    What i have in mind for you is called cast plate/tooling plate. Gawd knows why they call it cast cos it aint. Its machined to thickness as against the rolled from the mill finish that you often see, ya know the ally equivalent of fekin boiler plate, crap shite. Its dead flat and parallel and dosnt distort when its machined out. I will try to email you a foatie of the finish as i have some off cuts knocking around at work. The machined finish looks the bollux but tis really easy to buff up if you so desire.

    I think sandwiching the plinth is a good idea anaw. Because you can then experiment with different intermeadiate plate materials cant you. Maybe ally/mdf/ally. Ally/acrylic/ally etc etc. To listen to any sonic differences. No doubt you have already got this in mind anyway, but i was up early and had my engineering head on, which will go in the bin tomorrow when i get to work,lol.

    Oh yeah, this cast stuff aint as expensive as it reads btw.

    Forget me emailing you a foatie i will stick a bit in the post. Touchy feely and stuff,lol.
    Last edited by KB1; 15th May 2011 at 09:03. Reason: Afterthought.
    Elitist scum vinyl owner

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    Hi Keith, I've done all the sandwiching stuff and I've a pretty good idea of what works with what. I don't want to say any more about that right now but I'll email you with my requirements and we'll see where it takes us aye.

    I have to say though that I do like birch ply. A very organic sound and I want to try this plinth I've just made with an acrylic subchassis insert. Bear in mind I'm no wood worker, more likely a wood spoiler so I'm sure my ply plinth can be made to look very acceptable when done properly

    The aim of the game at the moment is to achieve as good a performance as possible for a realistic cost and with easy setting up as a bonus. I'm probably flogging a dead horse here as companies like Project are already do this sort of thing really well but hell where's the fun in that?
    Si.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chops54 View Post
    I'm probably flogging a dead horse here as companies like Project are already do this sort of thing really well but hell where's the fun in that?
    Yeah but yeah but....
    First of all to make a TT yourself that sounds great must be good for the brain. You enjoy doing it and reaping the rewards and that must give you a great sense of achievment ( fink thats spelt wrong but heyho.lol.) If at the end of the day you manage to sell only a handfull, but peeps are over the moon with it, well thats job done innit.

    I take my hat off to you mate for giving it a go, if you dont try you will never know will you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1 View Post

    I take my hat off to you mate for giving it a go, if you dont try you will never know will you.
    Amen to that, well done for having a go.

    re the project etc, thing is peeps like to discover the giant killer, the new kid on the block, it appeals to their sense of ego, it's usually those with big signatures in their posts listing 'heavily modified this' and 'super heavily modified that' you are playing to their ego.

    FWIW Si i'd stop right there with telling us your plans, go away and make it, and then announce it.

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    Is this difficult to do Si? Ideally it would be asymmetrical so the rear radiuses are larger than the front corners. You could also reduce the width of the rear and create a wedge shape with rounded corners.
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    Piece of piss if he had a cnc mill Gary.
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