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Thread: O d'A turntable

  1. #41
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    Yep Chops dont give up, even if you don't get all parts outsourced, there is nothing stopping you getting badges made for little outlay. Stick at it mate, look at the commercial products available, like a rega P3 hardly state of the art, but the right coat of paint and a fancy badge and away you go.

  2. #42
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    I've outsourced before and been shit on and only recently I sent in some machining work which I had to pick up six weeks later and take somewhere else as it hadn't been touched. The only way to get things done is to do it yourself. The end result might look rough at least your idea's safe.

    Right lads I'm going out on the lash
    Si.

  3. #43
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    I'm only talking about badges initially mate, or transfers ala rega. Enjoy yer beer.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chops54 View Post
    I do hope that's not aimed at me Andy
    Just to throw my view into this here from my design background. As soon as you start including logos and fancy finishes you are alluding to something you're not and that is a high volume manufacturer with all the specialist machining tools acquired from tens of thousands of pounds of plant investment. If you make your own product at home and cannot or do not intend to take it to a proper commercial level, I would not stick a logo on it as it is attempting to make it appear as something it isn't. A simply produced badge is sufficient but even then I personally would question the use of that. Maybe hand-engrave the base or somewhere your signature or mark is not so visible? What you are making is a bespoke product so to brand is anything else is not appropriate imvho.

  5. #45

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    My(newbie) 2 cents:

    Yes i engraved "Harward Audio" on my plinth. It's my last name, it's something i'm proud of, as is my creation, and the slab of acrylic was already up on the CNC so why not put a name on it even if just for kicks ? I have no intention of mass producing my table, chances are i may only ever make the 1. If someone did commission me to make them a table, it'd eather come with the Harward Audio name, or i'd let them put their own name in it. I personally think it's a nice touch that for me isn't a lot of work.

    As for you Si, you should be VERY proud of your creations, especially as you do everything by hand without any fancy CNC's. You make me feel like a cheat.
    You have a PM mate. I'd like to send you a couple of badges ;-)
    Last edited by Gutty; 27th May 2011 at 23:53.

  6. #46
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    That's very much appreciated Matt and I've returned your pm.

    You're so right Gary. The thought of high volume doesn't appeal to me and actually demands better quality of fit and finish than a bespoke item imo. That's not an excuse not to strive for the best but that's how it is I think.
    Si.

  7. #47
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    It's about the appropriate brand identity. I know some artists sign their work as if it's a brand and form their name into a kind of logo (Egon Schiele for one), but it's still hand produced and each signature is individual. At the end of the day it doesn't matter whether you want a corporate style logo design printed or embossed onto the plinth or scratch your own 'X' somewhere, it's personal choice. Gutty, I wasn't suggesting in any way you have done the wrong thing with yours, it looks very good and does personalise it with your style.

  8. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by TIU View Post
    Gutty, I wasn't suggesting in any way you have done the wrong thing with yours, it looks very good and does personalise it with your style.
    No probs TIU ;-) No offence was taken, just explaining why i did and would again "brand" my TT.

  9. #49
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    Heard the deck while I was on holiday, was extremly surprised at how good the whole thing sounded. Yes it could have looked better, the tube and houseings might have been polished and laquered, and the plinth might have been stained and had 14 coats of varnish, but it is a PROTOTYPE and we all know it.

    Si I was happy to hear the deck, sit back with a beer or 3 and be proud.

    Speak to you later.
    Coincidences - Gods way of reminding you that he's here.

  10. #50
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    Thanks Dougie.

    Sorry I didn't pick this up yesterday but I was shattered when I got in after work. I fell asleep on the settee at 6 o'clock and woke up in the same place at 5 to 6 this morning.

    The new dc motors have been ordered and I've started your speed control board too
    I'll try and get the pulleys machined this weekend.
    Si.

  11. #51
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    I've made a few changes to the turntable and arm. I've had a new lower platter machined and I've split the aluminium subchassis into two parts thereby decoupling the arm from the platter. I've fitted a much larger dc motor and made some changes to the speed control. I'm now happy that it actually works as intended which has taken me bloody ages to get right. The jury's still out on the decision to split the subchassis but I feel at this stage that I'm going to go with this as the new plinth ( with rounded corners ) is designed around this and is already part built. I'm hoping it'll be finished soon. Once this lot's done and gone through the listening procedure I can start work on the new bearing.





    The subchassis is actually split in two places, the other cut is just under the rim on the lower platter, just to be sure that decoupling was achieved
    Si.

  12. #52

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    That looks very proper indeed Chops, I like it aesth, assth, easth.....it looks bloody good.

  13. #53
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    Thanks Rocky. It's sounding pretty good too and I feel like I'm getting somewhere near.
    Si.

  14. #54
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    Great work Si, persevere and you'll reap the rewards in the long run.

  15. #55
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    that deck is looking bloody impressive, the idea to split the subchassis makes good sense from an arm changing point of view too.

    looking forwards to seeing the new plinth

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    Ta for that Gary. I'm out of work again so I have some spare time to burn. I think I'll make a start on that other arm I was promising to do.
    Si.

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    Excellent work Si, the 12" er is looking pretty smart too
    Garrard 301 with SME 3012, Garrard 401 with PU7 both in slate plinths, Puresound P10, Highphonics SUT, Glasshouse TVC Passive Pre, Bel Canto Set 40 (845 power amp), Tannoy GRF Memory`s

  18. #58
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    It's the encouragement I get from you guys that keeps me going, thanks for that

    Gordon, I split the subchassis simply to find out if there would be any gain by decoupling the arm from the platter, not for ease of arm changing. The aluminium arm base is fixed in place though decoupled from the main plinth so is not removable. I'm not convinced that decoupling is the right thing to do as the arm and platter bearing need to be rigidly connected to extract the maximum information from the disc. Decoupling breaks that rigid connection but helps prevents energy transmission between them. Swings and roundabouts?

    Maybe that's why many owners of Linn Sondeks prefer the fixing screws or bolts in the case of alternative subchassis to be just nipped up which causes a shift in energy transmission or loss at that point. Well that's my take on it but it is audible.
    Si.

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