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Thread: Cheap alternative to Origin Live Upgrade Transformer (PSU)

  1. #1

    Default Cheap alternative to Origin Live Upgrade Transformer (PSU)

    I looked around the internet looking for an upgrade AC-AC PSU for the Origin Live DC motor on my Hydraulic Reference Turntable.

    I found a couple of references to a Maplin L54BR AC-AC 12v 3a PSU being up to the job.

    Today I phoned Maplins to confirm they had one in stock and to reserve it, I drove to Ealing Broadway with my 18 year old son whilst I went round the block, parking in Ealing is so poor like many others with cars, I go elsewhere to shop.

    In Maplins the assistant quizzed my son as to the use for an AC-AC psu who ended up saying he had just had a lecture from me that 90% of psu's are AC-DC etc. only when satisfied did my son get the psu; well done Maplins.

    This evening I pluged in the L54BR nothing went bang, I left it for the usual 3 minutes to stabilize no adjustments needed on the control unit, I have been listening to music most of the day so I dropped the needle on to a track my initial reaction was better more fluid bass and better/slower timing seemingly more space.

    This follows on from some preamp mods and will require thought, so far very pleased...

    John

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    well done m8

    what sort price are maplins doing the PS for?

    bw
    j7
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    well done m8

    what sort price are maplins doing the PS for?

    bw
    j7
    Maplin L54BR AC-AC 12v 3a PSU 17.49. Apparently 20.oop spent on bits in the extruded aluminium control equates to O/L top upgrade @ 300... I will need help with that one.

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    hehehh

    wish i could make a markup like that
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  5. #5

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    I bet you do.

  6. #6

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    An expert on another forum posted this, in reply to my question re upgrading the control box

    "If that's the v6.
    Replace the diode bridge at the input with four discrete schotky diodes anything with 3x the voltage rating of the input will do. Add a small film cap, .1uf at c7. Replace the electrolytic cap with something larger and with low esr- let me know the voltage and capacitance of what's in there I will have something suitable lying round.

    Also read the numbers off the small black 2 legged voltage reference, quieter option will exist".


    When I pointed out that in order to do this I would need someone to hold my hand I am not that confident nor probably competent he posted this.



    I would still need someone to hold my hand etc.


    John
    Last edited by Big John; 12th July 2013 at 19:40. Reason: Photo

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    yea ...heheh sounds simple until its your baby your risking
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    yea ...heheh sounds simple until its your baby your risking
    Yeah I don't know enough to evaluate risk to baby...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big John View Post
    I looked around the internet looking for an upgrade AC-AC PSU for the Origin Live DC motor on my Hydraulic Reference Turntable.

    I found a couple of references to a Maplin L54BR AC-AC 12v 3a PSU being up to the job.

    Today I phoned Maplins to confirm they had one in stock and to reserve it, I drove to Ealing Broadway with my 18 year old son whilst I went round the block, parking in Ealing is so poor like many others with cars, I go elsewhere to shop.

    In Maplins the assistant quizzed my son as to the use for an AC-AC psu who ended up saying he had just had a lecture from me that 90% of psu's are AC-DC etc. only when satisfied did my son get the psu; well done Maplins.

    This evening I pluged in the L54BR nothing went bang, I left it for the usual 3 minutes to stabilize no adjustments needed on the control unit, I have been listening to music most of the day so I dropped the needle on to a track my initial reaction was better more fluid bass and better/slower timing seemingly more space.

    This follows on from some preamp mods and will require thought, so far very pleased...

    John
    Very interesting. I might head over to Maplin tomorrow. I certainly wont be
    chucking 195 in OLs direction...


    James H

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    Well, I *did* indeed head over to Maplin today, and bought the L54BR 12V 3000mA PSU for 18.99.

    Been using it for the last 5 hours. What a difference! Good shout, Big John.


    BTW, I now have a spare Mk6 PCB. I was thinking of using it to arse around with some of these suggested
    upgrades, although I also know nothing about electronics. A company called http://www.lincolnbinns.com/
    make the very same enclosures that Origin Live use. I'm thinking of a nice black version of the E-Case C
    (100mm wide, 160mm long, 45mm high) with some custom printing on it! A sort of home made 'Ultra' control
    box, if you will.




    James H
    Last edited by james73; 23rd September 2013 at 00:49.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by james73 View Post
    Well, I *did* indeed head over to Maplin today, and bought the L54BR 12V 3000mA PSU for 18.99.

    Been using it for the last 5 hours. What a difference! Good shout, Big John.


    BTW, I now have a spare Mk6 PCB. I was thinking of using it to arse around with some of these suggested
    upgrades, although I also know nothing about electronics. A company called http://www.lincolnbinns.com/
    make the very same enclosures that Origin Live use. I'm thinking of a nice black version of the E-Case C
    (100mm wide, 160mm long, 45mm high) with some custom printing on it! A sort of home made 'Ultra' control
    box, if you will.




    James H
    James H

    Glad to be of service & that it is a great up-grade for you, I notice TT spin up time is much quicker which suggests more torque & torque wins races.

    If you can get the board up-graded as well. photo step by steps would be appreciated...

    John

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    yea we love PICS !!
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    The word on the street, I mean t'interweb is that the Origin Live motors are:
    DC100 = Maxon 110189 motor
    DC200 = Maxon 226774 motor

    http://www.maxonmotor.co.uk/maxon/view/catalog/

    A quick comparison of some of the info from the catalogue:




    I believe my DC100 is now goosed (I haven't treated it well over the last 6 years...)
    so I'm probably going to opt for the DC200 but I'll buy it direct from Maxon, which
    works out about 126 instead of 250 direct from OL.

    I'll keep you posted... sherlock.gif


    James H
    Last edited by james73; 25th September 2013 at 11:00.

  14. #14

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    Great James look forward to your posts re motor & control box...

    John

    PS: J7 needs his regular pic's fix

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    might be tricky getting the old motor pulley off

    is it a plastic or metal one?
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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    might be tricky getting the old motor pulley off

    is it a plastic or metal one?
    You must be reading my mind, J...

    The DC100 has a plastic pulley as shown. It slips on and off easily enough.




    However, about two hours ago I dug out my very first OL DC Motor. It's a Premotec
    9904 12V 18105
    . This was the motor OL provided in the early days prior to using
    the DC100 and DC200, along with a (very) home made tiny wee PCB. This thing never
    worked right for me.

    Anyway, I stuck on the Planar 3, left it running for 30mins and guess what? It's only
    working just about perfectly! It's supplied via the Maplin L54BR AC-AC 12V 3.0A PSU and
    the speed control box is the Mk12 version. So, my DC100 is defo for the big electronics
    store in the sky. I'd still like the DC200 motor as users I've read and pm'd on other forums
    say it's a big improvement.

    The Premotec motor
    pulley is brass one and I couldn't take it off to raise it up a bit
    on the spindle.

    Any suggestions?? ** pic added **



    James H
    Last edited by james73; 23rd September 2013 at 19:24.

  17. #17

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    [QUOTE

    Any suggestions?? ** pic added **






    James H[/QUOTE]


    James is there any reason not to make the hole larger & drop the motor in from the top, you will gain 1mm or so ie the thickness of top plate, need more, then thin washers, by the look of it there should be room for a hole a little larger than the motor body...

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    u need a tiny bit of heat from a solder iron to expand the pully to take a metal unit off
    as well as a home made pully extractor...just call me and ill explain if needed

    please note i have a new mobile number PM me for it if needed
    \
    i may also be able to repair the old dc100 motor...i spent a long time racing remote control model cars and rebuilding the motors was part of the game if you want to win...so if its junk send me it and ill explore when i have a free min
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big John View Post
    James is there any reason not to make the hole larger & drop the motor in from the top, you will gain 1mm or so ie the thickness of top plate, need more, then thin washers, by the look of it there should be room for a hole a little larger than the motor body...
    Well, yes.

    Firstly, I already ruined a Rega Planar 3 plinth trying to get the original Origin Live
    Motor kit to fit in 2000/2001. The problem with hacking away at the thin veneer on
    the Planar decks where the motor is attached is you risk fracturing it, as I did with
    my previous Planar 3 plinth. I'm not going down that road again. And, the plate that
    the motor is attached to is 2mm thick, not 1mm.

    Secondly, this crazy Premotec 9904 12V 18105 DC motor I'm using at the minute has
    a much larger diameter than the DC100/Maxon 110189 motor. I'd have to hack an
    even bigger hole, and that would increase the risk of fracture at the point of where
    you attach the motors nuts and bolts.

    Thirdly, I'm using Frank @ Groovetracers most excellent 'Reference Subplatter' on my
    deck and even though the Premotec DC motor is sitting a little lower than the DC100
    was, the flat section belt is still catching it quite comfortably. See pics.




    J7's AO RB250 in the background....







    James H

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    u need a tiny bit of heat from a solder iron to expand the pully to take a metal unit off
    as well as a home made pully extractor...just call me and ill explain if needed


    please note i have a new mobile number PM me for it if needed
    \
    i may also be able to repair the old dc100 motor...i spent a long time racing remote control model cars and rebuilding the motors was part of the game if you want to win...so if its junk send me it and ill explore when i have a free min
    Oo-er, sounds a wee bit complicated.

    As I said earlier in the thread, I've been running the original motor Orgin Live gave
    me 12 or 13 years ago, the Premotec 9904 12V 18105, since about 5.30pm earlier
    today -and it's working perfectly. Next to no speed drift at all. I've been sitting here
    listening to LP after LP after LP without going into my hitherto "normal" routine of
    checking the strobe disc after every LP swap.

    Amazing. I'm sitting here beside a clone of myself....


    I sent Mark "Origin Live" Baker an email earlier telling him I'm using this old motor and
    that the DC100 he sent me is a dead duck. It might be interesting to see what he
    says. Then again, it'll more than likely be "buy the DC200 motor from us. That'll fix
    the problems you're having...
    " sort of thing...

    Anyway - I'm up for buying the Maxon 226774 motor (OL DC200) direct from Switzerland.
    If anyone else is interested in this motor maybe we could arrange a "group buy" sort
    of thing to save on import costs? Anyone who's up for this, let me know ASAP. I think
    I will also post this suggestion on Vinyl Engine - the more the merrier.



    j7 - mind, I'm in Glasgow tae. I can drop the DC100 off to you no bother if
    you want to have a look see over it.


    James H
    Last edited by james73; 24th September 2013 at 01:37.

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