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Thread: Cheap alternative to Origin Live Upgrade Transformer (PSU)

  1. #21

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    Is there anything J7 can't do ???

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by james73 View Post
    I sent Mark "Origin Live" Baker an email earlier telling him I'm using this old motor and
    that the DC100 he sent me is a dead duck. It might be interesting to see what he
    says. Then again, it'll more than likely be "buy the DC200 motor from us. That'll fix
    the problems you're having...
    " sort of thing
    ...
    Actually, he said "The good news is that there is no advantage in changing to our
    motor as the one that you have is as good.
    "




    James H

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    Night 3 of pitch perfect vinyl replay.

    Un-feckin-believable. A DC motor that I've had sitting in a box for the last 6 years
    is doing the job I was convinced was beyond this piece of kit, my rather bitter
    experience using it nailing the lid down on my opinion of it.


    There's a few more things to try out with this new set-up yet. I own one of Michael
    Lims Dual Pulleys, where you can attach two round section belts, like so:






    James H
    Last edited by james73; 25th September 2013 at 21:50.

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    will be interesting to find out if the pulley sounds better or worse than the original rega pulley
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  5. #25
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    Well I wont be comparing it to that, mind. The Premotec Motor I'm using has that
    brass pulley wedged onto it. http://i42.tinypic.com/27xfqtz.jpg

    Opinion from those on Vinyl Engine who did a straight swap from the plastic Rega one
    seems to be it's a no contest, the Lim Pulley is far superior. Certainly, the improvement
    I and many others can attest to when we replaced the plastic Rega subplatter with
    Groovetracers Reference aluminium version suggest precision metal components give
    a far better result. Not really surprising, and worth remembering at this point that a
    Planar 3 is a true "beer budget" turntable after all!


    On a related issue, would a thicker?/heavier? oil in the main bearing help or hinder pitch
    stability do you think? That was another of Origin Lives responses to me, "the oil must be
    too warm/too cold
    "... It was quite depressing correspondance now that I think back on it.


    James H
    Last edited by james73; 25th September 2013 at 21:52.

  6. #26

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    This thread was slow to take off james73 has invigorated it & me.

    As for oil viscosity you are in J7 booster oil territory.

    I hope you continue by modding the psu board as per my pic of bits to mod

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    yea oil thickness depends on the bearing clearance ...i expect your central heating keeps the house/deck at a reasonable temp...so thats not my 1st concern

    james just phone me on my new mobile number and ill help with the oil and pulley advice

    bw
    j7
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

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  8. #28
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    Big John.

    It was your post on here (& other forums) about the Maplin L54BR PSU that started
    all this!#
    Buying that PSU on Sunday started me down the road of logical deduction
    of the issues I had with the OL Motor Kit. I've had so many false dawns trying to get
    the thing to work as it should and never really solved any of them.

    I now believe the DC100 motor is gubbed AND the cheapo wall wart PSU I was using
    was goosed. The Mk.6 OL circuit board may or may not be for the knackers yard. All I
    know is the Mk.12 version that's in situ right is doing exactly what it says on the tin so
    I'm reluctant to switch back right now to test it.

    As I'm sure you know, the OL Advanced PCB says "ULTRA & ADVANCED PCB" on it. From
    reading elsewhere online, it's a case of adding a few more components. But dont expect
    a lot from me on this one - I think my level of electronics and soldering is on a par with
    your own!

    #So cheers for that. I owe you one.


    James H

  9. #29

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    Understood.

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    This weeks observations.

    Monday - used the unit all evening. Speed was steady all night until around 11pm,
    where it slowed down a wee bit. This meant a clockwise turn on the 33.3rpm pot of
    around 70 degrees or. It ran fine for the next 90minutes or so, before it suddenly
    sounded fast. I returned the 33.3rpm pot to where it was previously, and it ran fine
    once again.

    Tuesday - I started it up, not touching the speed control pots from their positions as
    they were the previous night. It played fine all night.

    Wednesday - similar story to Monday, except the period where I turned the speed up
    bit lasted more like 3 or 4 hours. Once again, it finally sounded too fast and I returned
    the pots to their previous positions.

    Thursday - started off fine for 2 hours or so before it slowed a bit. I turned the pots
    up again, and they stayed in this position all night. There was no speeding up this time.

    Friday - troublesome start to the evening. The pots were in the "faster" position from
    the previous evening, so I let an entire side of an LP play before I looked at it. At this
    precise moment I'm tuning the pots again. The 33.3rpm one is roughly at the "in between"
    position from the previous few nights. I'll be keeping my eyes on this and I'll report back.

    If all this sounds like a major pain in the scrotum, it's nothing compared to the older
    PCB and motor! I'm just wondering if this is a settling down period with the new PCB
    in place or the beginning of more headaches...

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I'm also wondering if there may be environmental electricity issues at play here? For
    the sake of convenience my hi-fi (the turntable, a JVC integrated amp, a Creek MM
    Phono pre-amp, and a Marantz CD player) are connected on a standard 4-way extension
    lead. At the moment, I have the Maplin PSU trawled over the floor and plugged into a
    wall socket on the opposite side of the room to test it out and see if it things will improve
    away from the other side of the room. I should point at that the side nearest the hifi
    has a double socket on the wall and has another 6-way extension lead plugged into
    it, this being for my PC.


    James H

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    ive be getting some of the rega 24v motor kits for stock at 120 its gteed to keep constant pitch (comes with 24v wall mart power supply)

    and the 24v motor on its own is only 90 ...so getting a better 24v supply would be possible also
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  12. #32
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    OL Advanced & Ultra PCB

    Found this image on another forum. It shows the differences between the two Mk6
    versions. 'Advanced' is at the top, 'Ultra' below.




    Below is the now-spare Mk6 PCB I have. Sharp eyes will notice a bigger "thingy"
    above the word Socket in the bottom left than appears on the 'Advanced' version
    above. More pics available on request...




    Now firstly, I need to figure out how to solder something...


    James H

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    ive be getting some of the rega 24v motor kits for stock at 120 its gteed to keep constant pitch (comes with 24v wall mart power supply)

    and the 24v motor on its own is only 90 ...so getting a better 24v supply would be possible also
    There's the Rega TT-PSU that fits with that, isn't there? And, am I right in saying some folk have used the Rega 24V motor
    with other control boxes, such as the Project ones?

    I'll see how this goes for the next wee while. It would be interesting to see if I can upgrade the older 'Advanced' board to 'Ultra'
    status - parts needed apparently total about 3 or 4 quid. I also have a fella offering me a genuine Maxon 226774 motor for a
    decent price One thing I DO like about the OL set-up is that ability to adjust the speed a wee bit. If it stays fairly consistent
    that I'll be happy. I actually hate a turntable that plays slightly too fast, I prefer it a tad slow if anything. I had a Dual deck
    years ago that was just that wee bit too fast and the thing drove me up the wall!


    James H
    Last edited by james73; 27th September 2013 at 20:52.

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    see the black and silver thing,.... ABOVE the resistor you are talking about (being bigger)

    well the black thing is a capacitor and looking at this board it will be the part that needs replaced to keep the speed stable (or at least better than it is now)

    this whole PCB is a very basic supply and nothing like stable (and never will be)


    next time your passing bring it with u and ill take a closer look
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  15. #35
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    j7 - if you need to know the numbers of any of these parts, let me know...

    Actually, I cant see a part number on that capacitor.



    The mk12 'Advanced & Ultra' board (the one I'm currently using) is a totally different layout BTW.




    James H
    Last edited by james73; 27th September 2013 at 21:12.

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    well im not psychic m8 hehheh

    but im sure i can work it out IF i get it in me hands

    bottom line is these units with there handful of parts are never going to be top end...and i expect u will to adjust it every now and again (most school kids are designing better units than this)
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

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    *If*, and it's a big if, the control box keeps performing as it is right now (the 33.3rpm pot's now back at
    the "original" position from a few nights ago, roughly a 1pm direction) and maybe some nights requires a
    turn of up to 90 degrees for a short time, then I can live with that. As much as it might sound tedious
    to some folk, given the amount of issues I've had with this over the years that's actually small potatoes.
    The improvement with the DC motor compared to the AC Premotec(?) one Rega used on the deck originally
    is quite considerable. The audible hum from the AC motor used to be clearly heard on songs at the end of
    the LP with quiet sections. There's been none of that with the Premotec DC motor I'm using or the "DC100"
    OL sent me.

    Hearing a genuine Maxor motor on this current set-up appeals to me.


    Electronics has always given me headaches, mate. It's something I've never been able to get my head
    around at all. I blame the clownshoe of a "Doctor" who tried to teach us Electrical Engineering Principals at
    Uni 20 years ago. This fecker spoke like a plate of Rogan Josh negotiating its way out of a cows digestive
    system.


    James H
    Last edited by james73; 27th September 2013 at 22:25.

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    Quote Originally Posted by j7 View Post
    ive be getting some of the rega 24v motor kits for stock at 120 its gteed to keep constant pitch (comes with 24v wall mart power supply)

    and the 24v motor on its own is only 90 ...so getting a better 24v supply would be possible also
    I found this entry on Michael Lims blog from a fella in Germany. He, like me, does not
    like the idea of the Rega TT-PSU not being adjustable (he also echoes my concern that
    the Regas run too fast), so he's went and built his own TT-PSU!

    Looks very interesting - a TT-PSU for the Rega 24V motor that's got +/- 4% user-adjustable
    pots on the front of the unit.

    http://lpturntables.blogspot.co.uk/2...diy-ttpsu.html








    James H

  19. #39
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    yip would be a good thing to have small speed adjustments
    www.audioorigami.co.uk

    And visit my face book page--- check out Audio Origami

    http://www.facebook.com/AudioOrigamiTonearms

  20. #40
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    Alternatives for use with the Rega 24V Motor would appear to be the Music Hall Cruise Control 2.0
    and the Pro-ject speed box SE II - both are adjustable from the front panel. Both are pretty pricey
    as well, it has to be said.


    James H

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