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Thread: Sub - chassis isolation bobbins

  1. #121
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    Far too much was given to the whole dressing of the arm cable and the general setup of the deck anyway, it was all apart of the manufactured mythos that surrounded the deck. Leave the tonearm cable as normal as the clip will give it some support, also don't worry about the motor wire, unless they're crossing each other you're not going to have induction of voltages.

  2. #122
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    Ok, thanks a lot for your reply

    Stu

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    Quote Originally Posted by karatestu View Post
    Hello, this is my first post.

    I have been reading this thread with much interest and as a long time LP12 owner who has never taken the deck apart, these bobbins (love that word) are the answer to all my prayers. If it is as easy as people say then I will have no trouble ! Thing is I have a Rubikon that I bought second hand to put on at the same time.

    It is so refreshing to be able to do away with all the lp12 set up bullshit. Excellent work John.

    I have one question. How does one dress the arm cable when you have these bobbins installed ? Is there any need to use the p clamp now or could you leave that out now ? As the subchasis and arm board are not wobbling about now could then arm cable just exit the plinth and bypass the p clamp ?

    This would make a lot of sense to me. Also If the arm cable exits the plinth at the right hand side of the deck wouldn't that be a good thing and keep the signal cabling as far away from the nasty mains wiring and motor as possible ?

    Just a thought.

    Many thanks, Stu
    Hi and welcome to this forum !

    I do have one of Johns set with Bobbins i could send it to you if itīs aloud. Is this OK John ? PM me
    As Cube says dress the cable normally and use the clip , in this case new or old doesnīt matter itīs more depends on the cable that you use.
    The Rubicon is a nice sub and platter and with Johns bobbins itīs going to sound amazing....

    /L
    Tangerine Audio Stiletto, Plateau, Skorpion, SME V ( D ), Dynavector DRT XV 1S, Chord Signature Tuned Aray, Linn Cirkus, Linn Radikal Klimax, Tranquility
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  4. #124
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    In actual fact /L it 's the bobbins that will make the party boogie.

    Karatestu has a set on the way to him as I write.

  5. #125
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    Thanks for the welcome. Yes John is sending me some bobbins but thank you very much for the offer.

    I have an aro and lyra argo to go on this rubikon. The in sole is the most important part as it allows me to set the thing up myself, never done it before.

    So if i wanted to fit my phonostage in the plinth like the naim prefix does , is this still do able ?

    Does the arm cable dressing still have an effect on the working of the deck when using in sole bobbins ? I would like to just put the cable in the p clip and just tighten it up. No messing with getting it perfect. Or do i need to take the same care as when using the old linn springs etc ?

    Thanks. Sorry about all the questions. Having owned this deck for 10 years i have never fiddled with it.

    STU

    P.S you will probably be seeing a lot of me in the future

  6. #126
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    Hello Stu.
    You should be perfectly OK if you wish to fit a Prefix, do you have a corner braced plinth?

    It is still important with or without the prefix to ensure the arm lead /cable is not stressed. The "In Sole" bobbins still allow a degree of movement but they are not influenced as much as the springs are with the Linn set up.

    As you suggest, just get the length of cable just right and tighten up the P clip.

    When it comes to fitting any other phono stage in the LP 12 plinth other than a prefix I guess much depends on what you intend trying out. I would personally use an NVA Phono 1 or 2 as I find them great, but these would certainly not fit, nor would I wish to.

    Regards.

    John.

  7. #127
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    Hi John,

    I dont know if i have corner brace, will look.

    I am not fitting a prefix as i think they are easily bettered. I was thinking more along the lines of phonoclone if it fits. NVA phono 2 is certainly an option but as you say it wont fit. I have heard very good things about them.

    Stu

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by John R View Post
    In actual fact /L it 's the bobbins that will make the party boogie.


    Karatestu has a set on the way to him as I write.
    Offcourse it is.

    Wery good , less springs on the market is better

    / L
    Tangerine Audio Stiletto, Plateau, Skorpion, SME V ( D ), Dynavector DRT XV 1S, Chord Signature Tuned Aray, Linn Cirkus, Linn Radikal Klimax, Tranquility
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  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by karatestu View Post
    Thanks for the welcome. Yes John is sending me some bobbins but thank you very much for the offer.

    I have an aro and lyra argo to go on this rubikon. The in sole is the most important part as it allows me to set the thing up myself, never done it before.

    So if i wanted to fit my phonostage in the plinth like the naim prefix does , is this still do able ?

    Does the arm cable dressing still have an effect on the working of the deck when using in sole bobbins ? I would like to just put the cable in the p clip and just tighten it up. No messing with getting it perfect. Or do i need to take the same care as when using the old linn springs etc ?

    Thanks. Sorry about all the questions. Having owned this deck for 10 years i have never fiddled with it.

    STU

    P.S you will probably be seeing a lot of me in the future
    If you have a hint of a handle with tools, and with Johns Bobbins , itīs not rocket sience. you will fix it !
    If you need help, you have came to the right place.

    /L
    Tangerine Audio Stiletto, Plateau, Skorpion, SME V ( D ), Dynavector DRT XV 1S, Chord Signature Tuned Aray, Linn Cirkus, Linn Radikal Klimax, Tranquility
    https://www.linnarts.se

  10. #130
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    Oh yes i am good with tools. If i can take a carburetor apart, clean it and put back together i am sure i can do this. My CD player is modified by me to within an inch of its life and i am currently building four Avondale voyager monoblocks. Oh and messing about with speakers too !

    The LP12 is the only thing i have not had in bits yet. Thanks for the offer of help i may need a little guidance here and there.

    Stu

  11. #131
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    Stu.

    I am sure you are perfectly capable of working on, servicing and "setting up" your LP12 regardless of what you use for isolation of the sub-chassis. You have to remember that a humungous myth has been created and perpetuated in order to make money for Linn and their dealers..

    Many enthusiast having spent a huge amount on their LP12 will not wish to jeopardise their warranty and perhaps more importantly to the fanbois, their Sondek's "musicality" by getting any aspect of set-up wrong in Linn's eyes.

    Of course those of us in the know use our ears to determine performance accuracy. Linn and their dealers have successfully perpetuated the notion of "Linn tight" which actually screwed up arm bearings, cartridges and headshells, so they followd that feck up with "you mustn't ever change a cartridge on a Linn arm with it still in the TT" when the real culprit of fecked bearings was ham fisted non engineering minded dealers with zero mech sympathy - or "feel" as it's known in the trade.

    Further myths are still being created and perpetuated. "Siding" felt mats plus belt siding and direction. The truth is this - felt mats are utter SHITE to start with!! That heap of crap should have been ditched decades ago. But of course, put yourself in the position of an "audiophile" visiting an "Expert Linn dealer" this guy knows his stuff yes? Then he/ she is thinking I'd better show and agree with him after having spent Ģ18k plus an a new LP12 SE - that I really can hear the difference of the felt mat siding demo, (hmm on an Ģ18k TT that misses swathes of the all important midrange) or I'll look a right prat. I know what I'd tell the expet Linn dealer, but then again I would never give Ģ18k for TT. Though I will visit them one day just for a laugh and the utter satisfaction of seeing their mugs when the realise who I am!

    The Linn term "musical" knocks me out - it's only musical to Linn devotees because half the information in the groove is missing - only the simple "tune" is produced! Lest we forget, a tune can be played by a cheep n cheerful MP3 player, or worse still by an old cheap ghetto blaster!

  12. #132
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    I've been running mine for a while now and are still pleased with the sound. It seems to have shifted slightly as the platter isn't quite level with the top plate now where it was when they went on, will add a locking nut below the nylon screws to ensure it can't 'sag'

  13. #133
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    Thanks all.

    You have given me the confidence to just get on with this. I have been scared to death of touching the thing since I bought it with a lingo (Ģ150) back in 2002. I was an Audio Republic customer back then and Andrew from there set it up and later put my aro and argo on. Have not been to a dealer in a very long time. learning how to strip and set up the 12 will mean I never have to go back ever.

    I will need to research the tools I need to set up speed and tracking force, and also how to align a cartridge. I do feel confident now since joining this forum and getting to know John a little. I will have to get one of the AI mats some time soon. Oh and try and build my own jig if that is possible.

    Thanks, Stu

  14. #134
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    Setting up a carb is a million times more fiddly than an LP12!

  15. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by qube View Post
    I've been running mine for a while now and are still pleased with the sound. It seems to have shifted slightly as the platter isn't quite level with the top plate now where it was when they went on, will add a locking nut below the nylon screws to ensure it can't 'sag'
    Hi qube.

    It shouldn't have shifted at all, are you sure the spigots are still located correctly into your sub chassis?

    I've been running mine for ages with just the plastic thumb nuts holding position and with my needing to move the LP12 frequently due to client demos it's still perfectly level..

    Honestly, if I thought for one minute that lock nuts would be required I'd have supplied them in the kit, but I'm open to being proved wrong

  16. #136
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    I repainted my room so had to move the deck to the back room and then back again once done, seems to be about .5mm out of kilter now.

    I was gentle with it though I promise!

    I've got that bearing spacer to fit and I'm supposed to be getting a new armboard after testing that corian beta one for the manufacture so will have a looksee then.

  17. #137
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    Have you been here and downloaded the appropriate manual(s)?

    Very useful (you may have to register to download) and tells you everything you need to know when you start with the spanners.

    G.
    You can only be young once, but you can be immature for ever.....

  18. #138
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    Thanks for the link. A mine of information there.

    Stu

  19. #139
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    Hi Stu
    Have an useful exploded drawing of an Lp 12 if you want me to send one to you. PM me if you want one !

    Im bad as he.. to put in pics

    /L
    Last edited by SME V; 9th March 2017 at 23:10.
    Tangerine Audio Stiletto, Plateau, Skorpion, SME V ( D ), Dynavector DRT XV 1S, Chord Signature Tuned Aray, Linn Cirkus, Linn Radikal Klimax, Tranquility
    https://www.linnarts.se

  20. #140
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    Many thanks. I have sent you a PM

    Stu
    Linn LP12, Rubikon, in sole, Aro, Argo, modified naim CD3.5, Avondale pre & power amps, B&W P4

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