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Thread: Rega Height Adjustment Spacer

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    Default Rega Height Adjustment Spacer

    Are there any fittings available that would make it easier for me to adjust the VTA on my AO Modified RB251 which is fitted to my LP12. I've swapped cartridges a few times and as a result have had to adjust the VTA using the plastic Rega Height Adjustment Spacer.

    I'm thinking that overtime the holes made by the screws going through the armboard will loose its purchase and no longer be firmly fitting the spacer, causing the arm also to become unstable.

    Is it possible for three threaded brass fittings to be fitted in the armboard to enable three threaded nuts to be easily used to go through the three point arm base and Height Adjuster Spacer and into three threaded brass fittings that form the holes in the armboard.

    Everything seems ok at the moment, but I'm thinking that it may become a problem for me the more adjustments I make.

    Thanks

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    Instead of using a brass insert, cheaper and easier to use a nut and bolt.

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    I guess what I need is an armboard which is threaded so that the three point Rega Arm base can be secured with three bolts, not sure if there's such a thing as a threaded armboard though.

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    I knew what you meant was th threaded brass inserts, and it's a valid thing to do, my point though was it's easier, and quicker, for not a lot of cash to use a nut and bolts(with washers) underneath to same effect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Professor View Post
    I knew what you meant was th threaded brass inserts, and it's a valid thing to do, my point though was it's easier, and quicker, for not a lot of cash to use a nut and bolts(with washers) underneath to same effect.
    Thanks, it's a good idea and thanks for suggesting it. The only downside is that I would then have to take the armboard off every time I wanted to do a height adjustment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by samz View Post
    Thanks, it's a good idea and thanks for suggesting it. The only downside is that I would then have to take the armboard off every time I wanted to do a height adjustment.
    Not if you take off the baseboard and sit the corners of your plinth on four bean cans then get your hands under and tighten bolts with a small ratchet spanner. Incidentally how is your arm board fixed to the baseplate?

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Professor View Post
    Not if you take off the baseboard and sit the corners of your plinth on four bean cans then get your hands under and tighten bolts with a small ratchet spanner. Incidentally how is your arm board fixed to the baseplate?
    I didn't think my LP12 armboard was fitted to the baseplate, it is fitted to the Sole Sub-chassis. Thank you for the link too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by samz View Post
    I didn't think my LP12 armboard was fitted to the baseplate, it is fitted to the Sole Sub-chassis. Thank you for the link too.
    It is fitted to subchassis, but removing baseplate allows you access to underneath and to bolts if fitted, doesn't the sole subchassis have tapped holes for fixture?

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Professor View Post
    It is fitted to subchassis, but removing baseplate allows you access to underneath and to bolts if fitted, doesn't the sole subchassis have tapped holes for fixture?
    I don't think so, the three point arm base sits on the height adjuster, and self tapping screws then go through the three point Rega arm base and through the three selected holes in the adjuster and screws into the armboard which is MDF I think.

    The armboard is neatly connected to the sole Subchassis by means of three Allen Bolts. The Three point Rega arm and spacer is not screwed into the Subchassis.

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    The Rega three point idea is crap and a PITA when adjusting VTA to accommodate different make carts to their own.

    I think the Prof is suggesting you could install three long M3 bolts from underneath the arm-board to use as pillars and use M3 nuts to adjust VTA by slackening of the upper three and slowly an painstakingly winding up the three nuts underneath the plastic three point Rega collar. However, I do feel if this is what he means the armband would need mods to thread it and counterbore each hole to help secure the pillars.

    Rega could have made a much better design if they had wanted to, simply by utilising a larger diameter PCD to give space for a sliding arm pillar like Linn use but being Rega they didn't which is a stupid shame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by John R View Post
    The Rega three point idea is crap and a PITA when adjusting VTA to accommodate different make carts to their own.

    I think the Prof is suggesting you could install three long M3 bolts from underneath the arm-board to use as pillars and use M3 nuts to adjust VTA by slackening of the upper three and slowly an painstakingly winding up the three nuts underneath the plastic three point Rega collar. However, I do feel if this is what he means the armband would need mods to thread it and counterbore each hole to help secure the pillars.

    Rega could have made a much better design if they had wanted to, simply by utilising a larger diameter PCD to give space for a sliding arm pillar like Linn use but being Rega they didn't which is a stupid shame.
    Thanks John, yes it would be good if there was an easier way to adjust the VTA more effectively and accurately. I'm thinking that I may have to at some point remove the armboard from the sub chassis in order to get beneath the armboard and use three bolts to thread through the Rega 3 point base and Rega height adjusteer and connect the three bolts to three nuts beneath the arm board.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by samz View Post
    Thanks John, yes it would be good if there was an easier way to adjust the VTA more effectively and accurately. I'm thinking that I may have to at some point remove the armboard from the sub chassis in order to get beneath the armboard and use three bolts to thread through the Rega 3 point base and Rega height adjusteer and connect the three bolts to three nuts beneath the arm board.
    can you not change the base for one from audiomods?that uses the older rega big nut option for attaching the arm to the arm board,if you use two of the big nuts(one on top one below) you have an easy way to vary the arm height

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